Endangered Indigenous
Foods
With Gretchen Morfogen
Americas top ten endangered foods are written about
in an enlightening article called RAFT (Renewing Americas
Food Traditions). Within this article is contains a
fascinating view of our early indigenous foods that
are on the brink of extinction due to the onslaught
of product standardization that was prevalent in order
to feed the masses.
The trend, however, is continuing to emerge to harness
locally, harvested, grown, and produced indigenous foods
so they aren’t lost to history. Several of the
foods that will be described in the following text have
lost much of their originality and been mutated to ecologically
redesign their botanical, aquatic, avian footprint as
closely as possible.
The decline in diversity tends to lose traditional ecological
and culinary knowledge which has previously connected
us to our food rituals and cultural heritage.
Short of documenting these foods to museum specimens,
instead safeguarding them as elements of living cultures
and regional cuisines, a coalition has been formed by
food enthusiasts, scientists, historians, and farmers
to reverse the devastating trends and revitalize what
remains of these unique foods. They are dedicated to
safeguarding, documenting, and celebrating these foods
to become once again a mainstay of the local diets in
which these foods once thrived.
The foods in question must meet a certain criteria which
includes; providing a unique gastronomic experience,
they are at risk as biological entities or culinary
traditions, they can be produced sustainably, and are
culturally or historically linked to a region, locality,
ethnicity or traditional production practice.
1. Chapalote Corn a.k.a. Chapalote, Maiz Café,
Bat Cave Corn emerges from the desert soil of the southwest.
Brought up north from Central America this short plant
was adapted to climates above 5500 feet but abandoned
sometime after Spanish colonization. Reconstructed in
primitive agricultural conditions of study has allowed
this sturdy plant to make a slow comeback. There is
only one commercial source for Chapalote in the U.S.
2. Chilitepin Pepper a.k.a chitepin, chile tepin, chile
del omonte, chillipiquin, a’al kokoli (O’odham),
chiltepictl (Nahuatl), amash (Mayan) a wild ancestor
of most cultivated peppers. The chiltepin grows naturally
in canyons and sierras from West Texas to southern Arizona
and into Mexico. The food and medicinal uses continue
as they were first recorded three centuries ago by Spanish
missionaries. Their decline has triggers conservation
efforts to ensure their survival. www.santacruzchili.com
3. Eulachon Smelt a.k.a. Eulachon, Oolichan, Colimbia
River Smelt, Salvation Fish, Oilfish, Ooligan, Candlefish
known as an ancient but vanishing part of the Pacific
Northwest. Use for centuries by the Native Americans
these oil laden fish could be preserved and used as
fuel. The commercial harvests have declined rapidly
in the last 100 years due to several factors including
the eruption of Mount St. Helens, marine pollution,
and toxic runoff from industrial farms and cities. The
conservation efforts have limited harvesting in order
to rebuild and preserve the essential history and culture
of the Northwest.
4. Gulf Coast Sheep a.k.a Native Sheep, Florida Native,
Louisiana Native, Louisiana Scrub, Georgia Native, Pineywoods
Native these sheep origin is not clear but brought to
the South for their fine wool in the 1500’s. They
are a hardy breed that produces great milk, meat and
wool but their growth rate was slower than that of other
breeds and were abandoned as a breed. Prior to WWII
there were 350,000 sheep in Louisiana and fewer than
200 remain today. Conservation efforts are to take advantage
of the opportunity to create a sustainable solution
to sheep husbandry in the south.
5. Java Chicken a.k.a Black Java, Mottled Java and White
Java considered one of the oldest breeds to contribute
to the foundation of America’s poultry stock from
the Far East. Despite its success it production was
abandoned to near extinction as improved breeds emerged.
If not for the conservation efforts of Sandhill Preservation
Center and Garfield Farm and Museum this breed would
be lost. Their fate currently rests in the hopes of
backyard breeders.
6. Marshall Strawberry – The Forgotten Flavor-
this was once the standard of excellence for the perfection
of color flavor, aroma and juice in a strawberry. In
the aftermath of WWII the berry farmers were debilitated
by crop disease inadvertently imported from other countries.
This berry is delicate requiring exacting climatic and
soil conditions and was susceptible to the viruses introduced.
It was phased out of production in the 60’s.
7. Native American Sunflowers a.k.a. cultivated sunflower,
Hidatsa, Arikara, Mandan, Shoshoni, Zuni, Paiute, Seneca,
Tewa, Girasol, Maiz de Tejas, Agagau’u (Hopi)
Culivated since 3600 B.C. they’ve contributed
to the oil and seed industry for millennia. The heirloom
varieties exist only due to the efforts of Southwestern
farmers and gardeners.
8. Pineywoods Cattle a.k.a Pineywoods, Guinea, Native,
Southernwoods this hardy breed was brought over from
Cuba and adapted to the humid subtropics and are excellent
foragers, rich in Omega-3’s. Despite intensified
efforts at conservation there are fewer than 200 registered
individuals remaining.
9. Seminole Pumpkin a.k.a. chasse howitska (Creek and
Miccosukee Seminole)
means “hanging pumpkin” were planted at
the base of girdled trees so the vines would grow up
the trunk and hang from the bare limbs. A prolific and
distinctive plant it’s flesh was used for fritters
or empanadas or simply baked and eaten. This heirloom
pumpkin had all the potential for a revival in it’s
native homeland in the Everglades should we commit to
brining it back from the edge of extinction.
10. White Abalone White Abalone, Abulon Blanco this
tiny marine snail is native to the Pacific coast of
California but its delicious white meat has put this
small mollusk in peril. The over harvesting caused the
decline of their population despite they are the deepest
habitat of West Coast abalones. First relished by the
Gabrieleno Indians they were commercially exploited
by Chinese immigrants. Fewer than one per acre remain
due to illegal thefts and black market demand. The White
Abalone Restoration Consortium is struggling to recover
the species.
For more about the conservation efforts mentioned please
explore the following websites: American Livestock Breed
Conservancy- www.albc-usa.org,
Center for Sustainable Environments – www.environments.nau.edu,
Chef’s Collaborative – www.chefscollaborative.org,
Cultural Conservancy – www.nativeland.org,
Native Seeds/SEARCH- www.nativeseeds.org, Seed Savers
Exchange- www.seedsavers.org,
Slowfood USA- www.slowfoodusa.org
Gretchen Morfogen is a regular culinary writer for The
Healthy Planet magazine.
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